A young cobbler (shoemaker) holds out a pair of leather loafers to a customer in a shoe shop. The cobbler is a young man with brown hair and a brown beard; he wears a black apron over a white polo shirt. The shoes he presents are brown with a thick chain pattern across the tops. The customer stands out of focus in the foreground, with her back to the viewer; she has long brown hair and is wearing a red top. In the background, various shoes and boots sit on a wooden table in the shoe shop.
These five U.S.-based shoemakers reject the cheaper means of mass production in favor of high-quality footwear made with sturdy, long-lasting materials. — Getty Images/Nikola Stojadinovic

Approximately 99% of shoes sold in the United States are imported, by and large, from China, Vietnam, and Indonesia. But not all shoes are made overseas. In fact, an estimated 200 U.S. footwear factories still exist today. These five small businesses choose to manufacture shoes here, and they’re not just surviving, they’re thriving.

Okabashi

In the 1870s, Buford, Georgia was one of the country’s major tannery centers. Resourceful artisans repurposed any leftover leather from saddles to make shoes. Thus began Buford’s longstanding history as a footwear-producing town.

When Okabashi planted roots in 1984, about 60% of shoes worn in the United States were made in the United States. “Now it’s only around 1%,” CEO Sara Irvani said. Leaving behind a very successful shoe business during the Iranian Revolution, Sara’s grandfather Rahim and father Bahman emigrated and made a commitment to American manufacturing. The torch was passed to Sara in 2017, and she continues to uphold their pledge.

Despite the majority of American companies favoring offshore manufacturing, Okabashi has remained steadfast in its quality-first philosophy and maintains domestic growth. The brand primarily makes sandals, flats, and rainboots, all of which are injection-molded. Echoing practices of Buford’s 19th-century tanneries, Okabashi has implemented a closed-loop system by turning scrap into products and recycling customers’ used shoes.

Alden Shoe Company

The New England shoemaking industry was booming in the 1850s after a series of inventions that mechanized stitching and increased productivity by 500–700%. Amidst the boom, Charles H. Alden founded the Alden Shoe Company in 1884. Nearly 150 years later, the small business remains family-owned in Middleborough, Massachusetts.

As a longstanding industry leader, Alden has been a source of inspiration for modern footwear brands. Focusing on quality materials and classic silhouettes has ensured products remain durable and never go out of style. Among the high quality leather Alden uses is vegetable-tanned shell cordovan crafted by Horween Leather Co. Also offering reinforcement and longevity is the incorporation of Goodyear welt construction—the stitching together of the upper, the insole, and the sole. Assembling the shoes this way provides a sturdy and flexible support system.

Passed down for generations, Alden is the only original New England shoemaker still standing. The brand is primarily known for its dress shoes and boots. The current president of Alden is Arthur S. Tarlow Jr.

Operating in a vertically integrated factory, all Queen City products are made in Williston, Vermont.

Hoffman Boots

A fourth-generation cobbler, Jim Hoffman and his siblings purchased Hoffman Boots from their dad and his brothers in 2000. Open since 1973, the small business continues to rely on word of mouth as its biggest advertising tool. “That is why you can buy the best quality pac boot for $60 to $70 less than our competition,” Hoffman said.

When Hoffman Boots was established in North Idaho, the logging industry was booming and there was a big demand for spiked bottom calk boots. An added feature was the replaceable calk that loggers could change out in the field. In the ‘80s, Hoffman Boots expanded into the utility industry, catering to linemen. Over time, the brand has also developed boots of the hunting and hiking varieties and has broadened its demographic by introducing a women’s line.

Though countries like Italy and Germany are sources for raw materials and specific parts of the shoes, Hoffman Boots takes pride in mainly manufacturing in Kellogg, Idaho.

Softstar Shoes

In 1985, Tim and Jeanie Oliver sought a more natural shoe for their daughter that would allow her feet to develop correctly. They learned how to sew soft leather shoes from an artisan in Laguna Beach, California, and debuted Softstar Shoes at the local Sawdust Art Festival. A portion of their profits bought a school bus, which was the brand’s first workshop. In 1990, the Olivers moved from Texas to Oregon, where the small business remains today.

In 2005, Softstar was purchased by Tricia Salcido and Larkin Holavarri, who shared the original vision for the company. Bringing their own business acumen to the table, they implemented e-commerce and modern sustainability tools, including solar panels and a digital cutting system to minimize waste. As the business developed, so did adults’ interest in sporting Softstar footwear. The first group to vocalize it: runners.

In 2010, runners began wearing Softstar’s lightweight moccasins when barefoot and minimal running gained popularity. With a few design adjustments, the RunAmoc style was born, and the staff doubled in order to meet demand. This led the brand to expand into a variety of styles for all ages and occasions, all made with soft leather and flexible soles and handcrafted in Philomath, Oregon. “We really feel that shoes should mold to your foot, and for that to happen, they have to be soft, flexible, lightweight,” Larkin Holavarri said.

Queen City Footwear

Matt Renna first got into cobblery in the ‘90s, working on his back porch. He started out making custom one-off shoes and boots under the brand name Renna Shoes. Later, he began crafting apparel, bags, and accessories and rebranded to Queen City Dry Goods. In 2023, Renna returned to his roots and refocused on shoemaking, landing on the name Queen City Footwear.

Operating in a vertically integrated factory, all Queen City products are made in Williston, Vermont. Renna and his small team work with fine leathers, molded suede, and urethane rubber. Some heavy machinery assists with efficiency, but each shoe is individually crafted. Mike Debarge is the small business’s chief cobbler and is “incredibly meticulous when it comes to making shoes,” Renna said. The company is very transparent about its manufacturing techniques and even shares tricks of the trade on social media. Queen City also offers a refurbishing service in an effort to prolong customers’ favorite kicks.

In addition to making its own branded products, Queen City also manufactures goods for other businesses on a contract basis. Looking forward, Renna has turned his efforts towards high-end sneakers and hopes to gain a reputation in the footwear market.

CO— aims to bring you inspiration from leading respected experts. However, before making any business decision, you should consult a professional who can advise you based on your individual situation.

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